2026-05-05
What to Ask Your Tile Contractor Before Work Starts
Most tile problems do not appear on the first day. Cracked tiles, loose hollow spots, mouldy grout, and water leaking through walls all show up 6 to 24 months after installation — long after the contractor has left and the renovation is considered done.
The frustrating part: almost all of these problems are caused by decisions made before the first tile was laid. Wrong adhesive. Skipped waterproofing. Cement grout in a wet shower. No expansion joints on an outdoor floor.
A few direct questions before work starts can tell you whether your contractor knows what they are doing — and give you a chance to correct the specification before it is too late to fix cheaply.
1. What adhesive are you using, and is it rated for this area?
This is the single most important question for any tiling job.
There are two common adhesive grades used in Malaysian tiling:
C1 (standard cement-based adhesive) — suitable for dry indoor areas. Not suitable for wet areas, outdoor use, or large format tiles.
C2 (flexible adhesive) — suitable for wet areas (bathrooms, kitchens), outdoor and balcony areas, large format tiles (60×60cm and above), and any surface subject to temperature change or movement.
A contractor using C1 adhesive for outdoor carpark tiles or a bathroom floor is making a mistake that will cause tile failures within a few years. The cost difference between C1 and C2 adhesive is small. There is no good reason to use C1 where C2 is required.
What to ask: "What brand and grade of adhesive are you specifying? Is it C2 flexible for the wet areas and outdoor areas?"
A good contractor will answer this immediately. A contractor who says "standard adhesive only" or "I always use the same product everywhere" needs to be questioned further.
2. Is waterproofing included, and where exactly?
In Malaysia, waterproofing is frequently skipped to reduce cost or time. It is the most expensive shortcut in the long run.
Waterproofing is required:
- Shower floors and walls — up to at least 1.8m height on shower walls, full floor coverage
- Bathroom floors — full coverage, including under the toilet base
- Balconies — any elevated slab exposed to rain
- Wet kitchen floors — if on an upper storey or above a habitable room below
Signs that waterproofing was skipped or done poorly:
- Mould appearing on the ceiling of the room below the bathroom
- Tiles cracking or lifting from the wall within 1–2 years
- Damp patches on external bathroom walls
What to ask: "Is waterproofing included in your scope? Which membrane product are you using, and what areas are covered? Can I see it applied before you tile over it?"
Seeing the waterproofing membrane applied and cured before tiling starts is completely reasonable to ask. Any contractor unwilling to show you this step is a concern.
3. What type of grout are you using — cement or epoxy?
Most Malaysian bathroom and kitchen renovations use standard cement grout. In wet areas, this is a compromise.
Cement grout is porous. In shower areas and wet kitchen floors, it absorbs moisture continuously. Within 6–18 months, this leads to the dark grey or black grout lines that most homeowners associate with ageing bathrooms. The staining is mould growing inside the grout — not just surface dirt.
Epoxy grout is non-porous, waterproof, and does not support mould growth. It costs roughly three times more than cement grout and requires a more skilled application. But in shower areas and bathroom floors, it lasts significantly longer and requires far less maintenance.
What to ask: "Are you using cement grout or epoxy grout in the shower and bathroom floor areas? If cement grout — what is the sealing plan, and how often would I need to reseal?"
If your contractor is using cement grout in the shower, at minimum ask them to apply a penetrating grout sealer after installation. This extends the clean period before mould takes hold.
4. What is the R-rating of the floor tiles?
Every floor tile has a slip resistance rating (R-rating). For wet areas, the minimum is R10. This is not a preference — it is a safety standard.
| R-Rating | Suitable For |
|---|---|
| R9 or below | Dry areas only — not safe in wet bathrooms |
| R10 | Wet domestic bathrooms and kitchens — residential minimum |
| R11 | Outdoor areas, commercial bathrooms, households with elderly users |
Contractors who source tiles for their clients may choose based on price or appearance without checking slip resistance. If your contractor is supplying the tiles, ask for the R-rating certificate for any tile going on a wet floor.
What to ask: "What is the R-rating of the floor tiles you are proposing for the bathroom and kitchen? Can you show me the product spec sheet?"
If they cannot answer this, ask them to find out before work starts. Any reputable tile brand provides this specification. If the contractor says "I don't know, it's a good tile," that is not a sufficient answer for a wet floor.
5. Are you leaving expansion joints in the outdoor areas?
Outdoor tiles in Malaysia expand in the afternoon heat and contract in the cool of the night. Without gaps between tile runs — filled with flexible sealant rather than grout — the tiles will eventually push against each other and crack, pop, or buckle.
Expansion joints are required:
- Every 4–5 metres in outdoor tiled areas
- At all perimeter edges (where tile meets a wall, a column, or a different surface)
- At any change in direction or plane
Many contractors grout over the expansion joint areas to save time. The result looks perfect on day one and starts cracking within 1–2 years.
What to ask: "Where are the expansion joints going in the outdoor areas? What sealant product are you using to fill them?"
If the contractor says "we don't need expansion joints" for an outdoor installation, this is a red flag. No outdoor tiled surface in Malaysia's climate can move freely without them.
6. How are you handling the substrate and levelling?
Tiles telegraph the surface beneath them. If the substrate is uneven, cracked, or not properly cleaned, the tiles will reflect that — through hollowness, cracking at high points, or visible lippage (edges of adjacent tiles at different heights).
Before tiling, a contractor should:
- Check the substrate for hollow spots, cracks, and contamination
- Apply a skim coat or self-levelling compound where the floor is uneven
- Allow the substrate to cure before tiling on top
- Clean the surface of dust, grease, and curing compounds that reduce adhesive bond
What to ask: "How are you preparing the substrate before tiling? Are you checking for level, and what is your tolerance for lippage between tiles?"
For large format tiles (60×60cm and above), lippage tolerance needs to be tighter — any unevenness is more visible across a large tile surface.
7. Who is doing the actual tiling work?
Some contractors quote jobs, coordinate materials, and then subcontract the actual tiling to a different team. This is not necessarily a problem — but you should know.
What to ask: "Is your own team doing the tiling, or are you subcontracting? If subcontracting — can I know who is coming and see examples of their previous work?"
This matters because your agreement is with the contractor you hired. If their subcontracted tiler makes an error, the responsibility for fixing it still sits with the contractor you contracted. Make sure this is clear before work starts.
8. What is the tile quantity calculation, and where does the extra go?
A good contractor calculates tile quantity based on room measurements plus a wastage allowance (typically 10–15%). Some contractors over-order significantly and the excess tiles leave with the workmen.
What to ask: "Can you show me the tile quantity calculation? And once the job is done, do I keep the leftover tiles?"
Leftover tiles from the same batch are valuable for future repairs. Confirm upfront that any unused tiles remain with you after the job.
9. What is the payment schedule and warranty?
Payment: A standard schedule for a tiling job in Malaysia is typically 30–50% deposit before work starts, with the balance on completion. Be cautious of contractors requesting full payment before work starts. For large projects, a staged payment tied to completion milestones is reasonable.
Warranty: Ask specifically: "If tiles crack or loosen within one year, what is your warranty process?" A reputable contractor will stand behind their work. Get the answer in writing.
What to ask: "What is your payment schedule? Do you offer a warranty on the installation, and what does it cover?"
10. Can I see a previous job?
For any contractor doing a significant tiling project — bathroom, kitchen, or outdoor area — asking to see a completed previous project is reasonable. It shows the quality of their cutting, the consistency of grout lines, how they handle corners and transitions, and whether their work holds up over time.
What to ask: "Do you have a reference project I can see — ideally a bathroom or outdoor area that is at least a year old?"
A contractor who has done good work for years will have references. A contractor who cannot or will not provide any reference is worth being cautious about.
Summary: Pre-Work Checklist
Before your contractor starts tiling, confirm:
- Adhesive type confirmed — C2 flexible for wet and outdoor areas
- Waterproofing scope agreed — which areas, which product, viewable before tiling
- Grout type confirmed — epoxy for shower and bathroom floor, or sealing plan if cement grout
- R-rating of floor tiles confirmed — minimum R10 for wet areas, R11 for outdoor
- Expansion joints planned — locations agreed for outdoor areas
- Substrate preparation discussed — levelling, cleaning, curing time
- Subcontracting clarified — who is actually doing the work
- Tile quantity calculation reviewed — leftover tiles stay with you
- Payment schedule agreed in writing
- Warranty terms agreed in writing
Frequently Asked Questions
How do I know if a contractor is quoting a fair price?
Get at least two or three quotes for the same scope and specification. If one quote is significantly lower, ask what they are leaving out — it is usually adhesive grade, waterproofing, or grout type.
My contractor says waterproofing is not needed. Is that true?
For shower areas and bathroom floors in Malaysia: no, it is not true. Waterproofing is essential in any area with direct water exposure. The only exception is if the bathroom is on a ground floor slab with no room below — but even then, floor waterproofing is best practice.
What should I do if tiles start cracking after installation?
Tap the tiles with a coin or knuckle. A hollow sound means the tile has lost adhesive contact with the substrate. This is typically caused by wrong adhesive, no expansion joints, or a substrate problem. Contact the contractor under warranty — do not ignore hollow tiles, as water will eventually get behind them.
Can I supply my own tiles and have the contractor install them?
Yes. Many homeowners in Pahang buy tiles from a supplier like us and engage a separate contractor for installation. Make sure your contractor knows the tile specifications (size, thickness, material) before quoting for installation.
Low Brother Ceramics has supplied tiles to contractors and homeowners across Pahang since 1994. If you need help specifying the right tile for your project — or want to confirm what your contractor is proposing — WhatsApp us at 016-383 1925.